In a major step toward sustainable textiles, researchers at North Carolina State University (NC State) have introduced a green alternative to the harmful chemical finishes commonly used on cotton fabrics. The innovation promises to replace formaldehyde-based resins and PFAS—widely known as “forever chemicals”—that are typically applied to give fabrics wrinkle resistance and water repellency. Both substances have long raised concerns for their health risks and environmental persistence.

The NC State team found success by modifying cottonseed oil, an agricultural byproduct, into a substance called epoxidized cottonseed oil (ECSO). This eco-friendly finish bonds strongly with cotton fibers and self-links, creating a hydrophobic and wrinkle-resistant layer. Tests showed impressive results: fabrics treated with ECSO achieved a water contact angle of around 125 degrees, compared to untreated cotton which immediately absorbs water.

The research was presented at the American Chemical Society Fall 2025 meeting, held from August 17–21. Graduate student Taylor Kanipe unveiled the findings under the supervision of Professor Richard Venditti, who emphasized the project’s potential to make cotton finishing safer and more sustainable.

Beyond performance, ECSO offers key environmental and economic benefits. Unlike conventional chemicals, ECSO is biodegradable and safer for ecosystems. Its use also adds value to cottonseed oil, which is often treated as a low-value byproduct in the cotton industry. Importantly, the finishing process is water-based and designed to integrate with existing textile production systems, increasing its chances of commercial adoption.

By transforming an agricultural residue into a high-performance finish, the NC State researchers have provided the textile sector with a viable path away from toxic chemicals. If adopted at scale, this development could mark a significant shift toward cleaner, safer, and more circular production practices in the global cotton industry.