Textiles Review |

Textile Exchange Publishes The Final Criteria For Its New Materials Matter Standard, Marking A Pivotal Shift In Connecting Certification To Impact

2025-12-30T10:00:00+00:00

The criteria were developed over five years in close collaboration with a designated International Working Group made up of brands, retailers, suppliers, producers, NGOs, and technical specialists. Two publicly consulted drafts and a pilot version, tested in key material production regions from Peru to Italy, have helped refine the framework, alongside extensive work to ensure alignment with the ISEAL Code of Good Practice for Sustainability Systems.

The first version of the Materials Matter Standard includes all materials currently covered by Textile Exchange’s Responsible Animal Fiber framework, including wool, alpaca, mohair, as well as recycled materials, as currently covered in the Global Recycled Standard (GRS) and Recycled Claims Standard (RCS). Organic cotton, which has long been an integral part of Textile Exchange’s standards system, will continue to play a central role through a gradual transition pathway for the Organic Content Standard into the Materials Matter System. This pathway will preserve essential functions such as traceability while strengthening the system to enable more holistic, farmer-centered outcomes.

Looking ahead, Textile Exchange intends to expand the system through partnerships with credible programs that align with their shared vision for climate and nature impact. This includes exploring pathways for fibers such as cotton produced through preferred production systems and man-made cellulosic fibers. By collaborating with established partners and bringing efforts together under one framework, Textile Exchange aims to reduce duplication, ease the burden on suppliers, and enable brands to more easily source materials that deliver measurable benefits on the ground. This partnership-driven approach is designed to broaden opportunity and impact across the industry while accelerating progress for climate, nature, people, and animals.

Today, the publication of the final criteria marks the first phase of the transition. The Materials Matter Standard will become effective on December 31, 2026, meaning that sites can start to get certified, and will be mandatory from December 31, 2027. Organizations may continue using Textile Exchange’s current standards until this date to ensure a smooth shift for certified sites globally.

Ultimately, the goal of the Materials Matter Standard is to provide brands, suppliers, and producers with a credible mark that links production practices to measurable outcomes—supporting the industry’s move toward integrity and accountability at scale. To support this transition, Textile Exchange has also released the Materials Matter Claims and Labeling Policy, which guides brands in communicating certification to the Materials Matter Standard with clarity and accuracy, strengthening consumer trust and ensuring claims remain grounded and responsible.

Together, these documents form the basis of a transparent and trusted framework that provides certification users with a reliable way to substantiate the environmental and social information they share about their products. In the coming months, Textile Exchange will continue to provide its community with practical information on certification to the new standard through the release of further policies and guidance, as well as close collaboration on piloting certification procedures.

Today, the launch of the final Materials Matter Standard criteria represents a significant step toward Textile Exchange’s vision: a world where materials have lasting value, leading to thriving communities and landscapes.

Claire Bergkamp, CEO of Textile Exchange, said:

“The Materials Matter Standard is more than a certification; it’s a commitment to driving measurable impact at the very start of the supply system. By aligning expectations and outcomes across the industry, this standard accelerates progress toward climate and nature goals and ensures that sustainability becomes a shared responsibility.”

Ashley Gill, Chief Standards and Strategy Officer at Textile Exchange, said:

“The Materials Matter System strengthens integrity, reduces complexity, and connects best practices to real outcomes. By consolidating our existing standards into one system, we’re creating a clearer, more scalable pathway to systemic change across the textile and apparel industry.”

Wool’s Rebound: The New Era Of Wool & Protein Fibers

2025-12-18T10:00:00+00:00

According to the press release, the market value for wool is predicted to almost double from $34.9 billion in 2022 to $63.2 billion by 2033.

Once a wardrobe staple along with cotton, wool lost market share with the advent of man-made fibers. Concerns about animal welfare also painted wool as a less than desirable fiber choice. But the natural advantages of wool — including warmth, durability, elasticity, odor resistance, temperature regulation, moisture management, resilience and breathability, among other properties — make it too valuable to exclude from the fiber choice landscape. As a 100-percent natural performance fiber, wool also is biodegradable, renewable and recyclable, making it a perfect fiber for a sustainable ecosystem.

Beyond luxury fashion, where Woolmark reports wool emerged as a key fiber in recent Spring/Summer collections, wool’s natural properties and seasonal adaptability are motivating sports brands to launch innovative wool apparel.

“As citizens demand more from what they wear — comfort, performance, traceability and responsibility — merino wool is meeting the moment,” said Woolmark Managing Director John Roberts. “With leading influencers and brands alike embracing its story, it’s no surprise demand is rising across luxury fashion, sportswear and lifestyle. It’s the fiber that truly delivers, naturally.”

Following is a snapshot of some companies and apparel/footwear brands that are championing the use of wool fiber.

According to Andy Wynne, CEO of New Zealand-based Nuyarn®, “The wool industry has undergone a remarkable transformation.” Wynne sees wool escaping its traditional categories of suits, formalwear and sweaters, among other categories, and becoming a “legitimate performance and comfort material across diverse categories including everyday hoodies, footwear uppers, women’s activewear, technical sportswear, loungewear, athleisure and beyond.”

Technology advancements, such as Nuyarn spinning technology, are helping drive the shift in tradition. Nuyarn’s twist-free spinning technology drafts superfine merino wool with a high-performance nylon filament carrier yarn to produce an ultrafine, two-ply yarn with more volume and aeration than merino yarns made using traditional worsted spun-yarn technologies (See “Nuyarn: Wool A New Way,” TW, January/February 2023). According to the company, the light weight and softness of the resulting yarns make them perfect candidates for next-to-skin applications in baselayer garments in particular.

Rather than avoiding the conversation, Wynne prefers to tackle historical concerns about wool head on. The company uses transparency, certification and education including full Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) certification, which ensures rigorous animal welfare standards and traceability from farm to finished product. “We’re also bluesign®, GOTS, and OEKO-TEX certified, demonstrating our commitment across the entire production chain,” Wynne shared.

Ibex’s Men’s Mammoth Full Zip Hoodie features Nuyarn® technology.

Nuyarn’s primary customers are active outdoor and lifestyle brands seeking to integrate natural fiber performance garments into their product lines. “Our development process is highly collaborative and tailored to each brand’s specific needs and customer base,” Wynne said. “As a fully vertical business — controlling every-thing from yarn production to fabric manufacturing to finished garments, we can offer brands a streamlined partnership with a single entity rather than managing multiple suppliers.”

Just some of the apparel brands using Nuyarn include:

Artilect — A long-time proponent of Nuyarn, Artilect offers baselayer products and accessories made using the yarn including the Flatiron 185 crew and leggings, which are made using a baselayer yarn blend — 91-percent superfine Nuyarn merino wool and 9-percent nylon — knit into a 185 gram per square meter (gsm) fabric that is bluesign certified. Artilect uses hangtags to share the benefits of Nuyarn with consumers under the “More than merino” tagline. The brand also incorporates a TAP wifi-enabled sticker on the hang-tags so users can scan using a smartphone to learn more online.
Ibex — Ibex features Nuyarn in its Woolies Pro Tech Q-Zip and Woolies Pro Tech Bottom baselayers. The fabric, comprised of 85-percent merino wool and 15-percent nylon, weighs 125 gsm making it Ibex’s lightest weight baselayer ever. While Ibex does not promote Nuyarn specifically on the hangtags, it touts the benefits of merino in a thoughtfully designed hangtag. The company does explain Nuyarn and all of its benefits on its website in the product descriptions.
Lé Bent — Committed to performance, apparel brand Lé Bent features Nuyarn in its Featherweight Hooded Merino Crew top and Featherweight bottoms. The 125 gsm fabric is made using a Signature Merino Blend that contains 60- percent merino, 25-percent bamboo and 15-percent nylon.

Nuyarn also has established partnerships with Allbirds and HOKA, and the footwear industry currently makes up one of the company’s largest categories.

Additionally, Wynne announced that the Herculan® technology has allowed the company to transition carpet wool — coarse fibers historically relegated to flooring and upholstery applications only — into high-performance wearable garments. “We’ll be launching a performance wool fleece using this material in fall 2026,” he shared.

“Wool isn’t a fiber of the past, it’s a fiber of the future and I wouldn’t be in this business if I didn’t believe that,” Wynne said. “We’re at an inflection point where consumers are actively seeking alternatives to synthetic materials due to growing awareness of microplastic pollution and climate concerns. Athletes and outdoor enthusiasts are driving demand for natural, sustainable performance options, and technology like Nuyarn makes those choices viable without performance compromise.”

Woolx’s Stella Leggings represent the brand’s warmest baselayer.

Woolx was founded in 2012 in Endicott, N.Y. as family-run brand focused on merino wool clothing that combines technical performance and everyday comfort. The product line incorporates essentials, pajamas, shapewear and layers, in ultra-heavyweight fabrics, featherlight pieces and everything in between for all seasons.

Traditional wool has an average thickness of 30 microns, while typical merino wool — known for its fineness — has an average thickness of 21 microns. To avoid any itchy, scratchy sensations against the skin, Woolx uses a super-fine merino wool with an average thickness of only 17 microns in many of its products.

“While wool might make some people think of their grandma’s scratchy sweater, this is not that,” said Nicole Calleo, co-founder and CEO, Woolx. “We’ve taken all the natural benefits of traditional wool —temperature regulation, durability and comfort — and reimagined them in a modern, insanely soft merino that’s as stylish as it is functional.” In addition, all of Woolx’s clothing is ethically sourced and responsibly made. “Every Woolx piece is certified non-mulesed ensuring the highest standards of animal welfare and sustainability, ” Calleo said.

Woolx offers the Stella Leggings and Piper Pocket Leggings. Stella represents one of Woolx’s warmest baselayers for fall and winter, while Piper is a merino wool baselayer with functional side pockets for all-day comfort and performance.

“The idea for Woolx’s merino wool baselayer leggings came from a simple need: clothing that could keep up with active, outdoor lifestyles without com-promising comfort,” Calleo said. “The founders wanted something that could move easily, breathe well, and regulate temperature during hikes, runs or even when used in everyday wear. Merino wool turned out to be the perfect solution — warm when it’s cold, cool when it’s warm, and soft enough to wear all day.”

The company recently extended the use of merino wool to mini Woolx, a new line of kids’ baselayers.

Ciele Athletics has launched its first Woolmark-certified merino wool collection of headwear and apparel.

Based in Montreal, Ciele Athletics— focused on headwear and apparel for runners — was founded in 2014 by Jeremy Bresnen and Mike Giles. “We are all very passionate about running, technical garments, responsibility, and doing the best we can as individuals and an organization,” said Dan Marrett, global marketing director, Ciele Athletics.

Ciele works with suppliers to develop technical fabrics and performance constructions tailored for running and movement. The brand recently partnered with Woolmark to launch its first-ever Woolmark-certified merino wool collection of apparel and headwear for winter. According to Ciele, each piece is independently tested and meets the Woolmark standards for durability, colorfastness and quality. Pieces in the line include beanies, balaclavas and baselayers made using 100-percent wool as well as merino/silk blended yarns.

“We’ve been exploring natural performance fibers for a while and that exploration led to our Sorino™ fabric line,” reported Ciele’s design team. “Partnering with an industry leader like Woolmark felt like the right move to help us highlight everything that makes merino exceptional. The Woolmark certification gives runners confidence that they’re getting the best quality merino possible. It’s a mark of fiber integrity, performance and traceability — all things that align with how we approach design and manufacturing at Ciele.”

Ciele is reimagining merino as a year-round performance fabric, not just a cold weather choice. “For us, reimagining merino means leaning into what it already does best and redesigning around its strengths to create true, all-season performance,” the company shared.

Paka innovates using alpaca fiber working with indigenous people in Peru to create its clothing and accessories.

While sheep’s wool currently is experiencing unprecedented demand, Peru-based PAKA is firmly focused on another fiber in the protein family — alpaca. Founded in 2017 by Kris Cody, the certified B-Corp. business works directly with non-governmental organizations alongside the indigenous people in Peru to create its natural, all-purpose clothing and accessories (See “PAKA: Tri-Blend Fiber Trio,” TW, November/December 2022). PAKA’s mission remains one of connecting people to where their clothing comes from and supporting the communities who make the garments.

“At PAKA, we’re continuously exploring how natural performance can evolve across categories,” said Megan Krajco, PAKA Design director. “Our foundation began with alpaca fiber in sweaters, but our vision is to build a complete ecosystem of products that support everyday explorers.”

Most recently, Paka has expanded into the outerwear category with its patented PAKAFILL® alpaca insulation material, which can replace down or synthetic fiber fill options, providing needed warmth without weight. PAKAFILL is featured in the brand’s Apu parkas and Mayu vests and jackets for men and women.

One interesting product that resulted after a 2022 PAKAFILL puffer launch, was a packing cube. In contrast to the company’s alpaca focused products, the upcycled packing cubes are made using deadstock polyester shell fabric left over from puffer production. The company was determined not to send the unusable material to landfills and came up with the idea for the packing cubes.

“From day one when Kris originally founded PAKA, our focus has been to help consumers connect to our natural world, make more conscious choices and support the Peruvian communities where our products come from,” said Laura Rysz, senior director of Brand and Marketing, PAKA. “That mission truly remains at the core of everything we do today, from the decisions we make on product development to starting team meetings with PAKA Foundation updates.” The foundation was formed in early 2025 to support “alpacas, alpaqueros, weavers and education for the Peruvian communities we work with,” Rysz shared.

PAKA just announced its first-ever Heritage Collection, co-created directly with master Quechuan artisans in Peru. The company gives back 5 percent from sales of the collection to the artisans’ non-governmental organization.

PAKA has also branched out into underwear and continues to innovate in knitwear building on “The Hoodie,” the original sweater PAKA developed. In addition, “the alpaca fiber in every PAKA item now is traceable back to the source,” noted Krajco.

“The wool/protein fiber market has made an incredible shift toward transparency, traceability and regenerative land management that was not part of the mainstream conversation 10 years ago,” Krajco offered. “At the same time, technology is allowing us to enhance what nature already perfected — through improved spinning, dyeing, and knitting techniques that preserve fiber integrity and reduce the environmental impact. What excites us the most is the fusion of tradition and innovation. We’re using modern tools to amplify the story nature already tells through fiber.”

As wool and other protein fibers step back into the spotlight, the apparel industry is seeing a convergence of innovation, transparency and consumer demand. Whether it’s Nuyarn pushing the boundaries of yarn engineering, Woolx refining next-to-skin comfort, Ciele reimagining merino for performance, Allbirds redefining footwear rules, or PAKA building a modern ecosystem around alpaca, these companies illustrate how nature and technology can thrive together. In a landscape once dominated by synthetics, wool and its protein-fiber counterparts are reshaping the future of performance, comfort and sustainability.

Allbirds: Footwear Disruptor Launches PFAS-Free, Fully Waterproof Shoes

A champion of wool since its founding in 2015, footwear brand Allbirds, San Francisco, recently introduced its first fully waterproof collection in three silhouettes — the Wool Runner NZ Waterproof, Wool Runner NZ Mid Waterproof and the Wool Cruiser Waterproof. Each shoe upper is made using merino wool and is treated with C-Zero per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS)-free durable water repellent (DWR). An additional breathable, waterproof membrane placed between the upper and interior lining further prevents water from penetrating the upper and reaching the feet.

“We were really excited about C-Zero DWR because it gave us the all-weather performance we needed, without having to use PFAS,” said Adrian Nyman, chief design officer, Allbirds. “In the design and development process, we explored different PFAS-free DWRs an ultimately selected C-zero because it delivered the perfect balance of water-repellency, durability, and played well with our toolkit of natural materials.”

Allbirds previously offered a weather-resistant Mizzle style, but had not yet developed a fully waterproof, all-weather option for showers, heavy rain or slushy conditions. “We wanted to redefine what waterproof shoes could be, with an Allbirds twist,” Nyman, said. “While most waterproof shoes lean utilitarian and technical, we believe that by looking to natural materials like wool, we can bring something new and exciting to this space.”

When Allbirds got its start, wool was not material ordinarily used in footwear applications. “But our founders knew it had incredible properties that could be put to use,” Nyman said. In 2016, when Allbirds introduced its first shoe, the Wool Runner, the product “flew in the face of all the ‘usual rules’ of footwear, particularly because of the use of merino wool, an untapped natural material in an industry so often dominated by virgin synthetics,” Nyman noted. “Almost 10 years later, Allbirds has sold nearly a pair of Wool Runners every minute, and the style has become a mainstay in wardrobes around the world — safe to say the founders were onto something!”

2025 Quarterly Issue IV

Textile Exchange Publishes The Final Criteria For Its New Materials Matter Standard, Marking A Pivotal Shift In Connecting Certification To Impact

2025-12-18T10:00:00+00:00

Claire Bergkamp, CEO of Textile Exchange, said:

Ashley Gill, Chief Standards and Strategy Officer at Textile Exchange, said:

Our Technology for Your Success: AUTEFA Solutions at ITMA Asia 2025

2025-09-04T10:00:00+00:00

!assets/images/autefa_solutions-scaled-2.jpg “autefa_solutions-scaled-2”)

Our Technology for Your Success: AUTEFA Solutions at ITMA Asia 2025

AUTEFA Solutions will be exhibiting at ITMA Asia + CITME 2025 (28–31 October 2025) at the Singapore
Expo, Hall 2, Booth D201, as a leading supplier of complete production solutions. From its three Business Units – Nonwovens, Baling Technology, and Woollen Carding Technology – the company delivers tailor- made machinery. Visitors can look forward to state-of-the-art technologies, proven equipment, and a trade-fair premiere: the presentation of the Stylus ONE needle loom. !assets/images/autefa_solutions-1024x1024-1.jpg “autefa_solutions-1024x1024-1”) Full-Line Supplier for Nonwovens AUTEFA presents itself as a full-line supplier for nonwovens: the portfolio ranges from fiber opening, cards to crosslappers, needle looms, spunlace and thermobonding technology through to Airlay machines and systems. Machines from the LineONE series – especially the Stylus ONE needle loom – offer cost-efficient solutions for a wide variety of applications and are ideal for production expansion or modernization. ITMA Asia Highlight: Stylus ONE – Smart Performance, Smart Investment The Stylus ONE needle loom (based on proven Fehrer technology) is a reliable, cost-efficient solution for
applications up to 1,800 g/m2. With up to 1,500 strokes per minute, it combines productivity with durability. Proven gearboxes ensure efficiency and minimal downtime. The machine is available in four
working widths of up to 6.7 m. First Order to China – Heading Filter Invests in AUTEFA Technology A significant milestone: China Zhejiang Heading Filter Material Co., Ltd. has ordered two fiber preparation lines (opening and blending), with cards and crosslappers, a total of seven Stylus ONE needle looms, the corresponding unwinders, as well as end-of-line equipment. The decision in favor of AUTEFA Solutions was based on several factors. Heading Filter relies on quality machinery to ensure product quality and customer satisfaction. In addition, AUTEFA’s technologists, together with ZFJ Textile Machinery Co., Ltd., impressed with well-founded, practical solutions for a technically demanding complete line. Another decisive factor was the expectation of high performance and reliable availability of the Stylus ONE. Baling Technology – Optimized Potential in the Fiber Supply Chain As a leading supplier of fully automatic baling systems for staple fibers and tow, AUTEFA offers the complete range – from fiber transport to the baler, through to transport and storage of pressed, wrapped, and strapped bales. In modern fiber production, a fully automated baling process with direct transport of the bales to the warehouse has become indispensable. The consistent automation of the entire fiber line with AUTEFA Solutions ensures maximum efficiency and productivity.

Brand-Promotion [wpcc-iframe loading=”lazy” class=”wp-embedded-content” sandbox=”allow-scripts” security=”restricted” title=”“Brand-Promotion” — Techtextiles & Nonwovens” src=”https://worldoftechnicaltextile.com/brand-promotion/embed/#?secret=DhObwBoyQj%23?secret=0king70Kvw” data-secret=”0king70Kvw” width=”600” height=”338” frameborder=”0” marginwidth=”0” marginheight=”0” scrolling=”no”] Woollen Carding – Proven Technology, Modernized With the latest generation of woollen cards, AUTEFA, under the OCTIR brand, showcases advanced drive
technology, fully integrated electronics, and the use of inverter AC and brushless servo motors. Thanks to recipe-based control and efficient parameter management, even the smallest production lots can be processed economically – with significantly reduced set-up times and minimized material loss. Upgrades, Retrofits & Assessments Across all Business Units, upgrades, retrofits, and assessments are becoming increasingly important. AUTEFA offers tailor-made solutions to modernize existing systems, enhance their performance, and optimize operating costs. Visit Us at ITMA Asia 2025 AUTEFA Solutions invites all interested visitors to experience the latest developments live.
You will find us at the Singapore Expo, Hall 2, Booth D201. Further details about the AUTEFA Solutions ITMA Asia presence will be published in a multi-week LinkedIn campaign in September/October. Follow here: https://www.linkedin.com/company/autefa-solutions Tagged AUTEFA Solutions Baling Technology ITMA ASIA 2025 Nonwovens Woollen Carding Technology AUTEFA Solutions will be exhibiting at ITMA Asia + CITME 2025 (28–31 October 2025) at the Singapore
Expo, Hall 2, Booth D201, as a leading supplier of complete production solutions. From its three Business Units – Nonwovens, Baling Technology, and Woollen Carding Technology – the company delivers tailor- made machinery. Visitors can look forward to state-of-the-art technologies, proven equipment, and a trade-fair premiere: the presentation of the Stylus ONE needle loom. !assets/images/autefa_solutions-1024x1024-1.jpg “autefa_solutions-1024x1024-1”) Full-Line Supplier for Nonwovens AUTEFA presents itself as a full-line supplier for nonwovens: the portfolio ranges from fiber opening, cards to crosslappers, needle looms, spunlace and thermobonding technology through to Airlay machines and systems. Machines from the LineONE series – especially the Stylus ONE needle loom – offer cost-efficient solutions for a wide variety of applications and are ideal for production expansion or modernization. ITMA Asia Highlight: Stylus ONE – Smart Performance, Smart Investment The Stylus ONE needle loom (based on proven Fehrer technology) is a reliable, cost-efficient solution for
applications up to 1,800 g/m2. With up to 1,500 strokes per minute, it combines productivity with durability. Proven gearboxes ensure efficiency and minimal downtime. The machine is available in four
working widths of up to 6.7 m. First Order to China – Heading Filter Invests in AUTEFA Technology A significant milestone: China Zhejiang Heading Filter Material Co., Ltd. has ordered two fiber preparation lines (opening and blending), with cards and crosslappers, a total of seven Stylus ONE needle looms, the corresponding unwinders, as well as end-of-line equipment. The decision in favor of AUTEFA Solutions was based on several factors. Heading Filter relies on quality machinery to ensure product quality and customer satisfaction. In addition, AUTEFA’s technologists, together with ZFJ Textile Machinery Co., Ltd., impressed with well-founded, practical solutions for a technically demanding complete line. Another decisive factor was the expectation of high performance and reliable availability of the Stylus ONE. Baling Technology – Optimized Potential in the Fiber Supply Chain As a leading supplier of fully automatic baling systems for staple fibers and tow, AUTEFA offers the complete range – from fiber transport to the baler, through to transport and storage of pressed, wrapped, and strapped bales. In modern fiber production, a fully automated baling process with direct transport of the bales to the warehouse has become indispensable. The consistent automation of the entire fiber line with AUTEFA Solutions ensures maximum efficiency and productivity. Brand-Promotion [wpcc-iframe loading=”lazy” class=”wp-embedded-content” sandbox=”allow-scripts” security=”restricted” title=”“Brand-Promotion” — Techtextiles & Nonwovens” src=”https://worldoftechnicaltextile.com/brand-promotion/embed/#?secret=DhObwBoyQj%23?secret=0king70Kvw” data-secret=”0king70Kvw” width=”600” height=”338” frameborder=”0” marginwidth=”0” marginheight=”0” scrolling=”no”] Woollen Carding – Proven Technology, Modernized With the latest generation of woollen cards, AUTEFA, under the OCTIR brand, showcases advanced drive
technology, fully integrated electronics, and the use of inverter AC and brushless servo motors. Thanks to recipe-based control and efficient parameter management, even the smallest production lots can be processed economically – with significantly reduced set-up times and minimized material loss. Upgrades, Retrofits & Assessments Across all Business Units, upgrades, retrofits, and assessments are becoming increasingly important. AUTEFA offers tailor-made solutions to modernize existing systems, enhance their performance, and optimize operating costs. Visit Us at ITMA Asia 2025 AUTEFA Solutions invites all interested visitors to experience the latest developments live.
You will find us at the Singapore Expo, Hall 2, Booth D201. Further details about the AUTEFA Solutions ITMA Asia presence will be published in a multi-week LinkedIn campaign in September/October. Follow here: https://www.linkedin.com/company/autefa-solutions

GST Hike May Devastate India’s Garment Industry: CMAI

2025-09-03T10:00:00+00:00

Despite repeated assurances from various stakeholders, reports suggest that garments priced above ₹2,500 may soon be taxed at 18%, up from the current 12% GST slab. Industry stakeholders have warned that this move could spell a death-knell for an industry already battling the impact of American tariff wars. If the GST Council proceeds with keeping ₹2,500 as the cut-off for the 5% slab and imposes 18% GST on products above this threshold, it will be a severe blow to the aspiring middle class and organized garment manufacturers, who are already the worst hit by tariff pressures. These manufacturers produce garments that are expensive not due to luxury consumption but because of the high cost of raw materials and intricate handwork involved. Specific Concerns Raised:

Woolen Garments: Almost the entire range of woolen clothing—essential for middle-class consumers in North, North-East, and East India—falls in the ₹3,500–₹7,000 price range. Placing these under the 18% slab would effectively force middle-class Indians to forego woolens in harsh winters.
Wedding Attire: Wedding garments, which even at the most basic level cost between ₹10,000–15,000, would become significantly costlier, leaving parents compelled to settle for inferior outfits for their children’s weddings.
Traditional & Artisan-Made Clothing: Handmade and artisan-crafted garments are naturally expensive due to the time and skill required. Taxing them at 18% would damage India’s traditional craft ecosystem and severely impact artisan livelihoods. Government and industry associations have invested considerable effort to move this traditionally informal sector into the formal economy. This GST hike risks undoing years of progress and pushing the sector back into informality. The apparel industry, which is already facing unprecedented challenges due to global tariff wars, needs a strong and resilient domestic market to survive. A drastic price hike in large product categories could cripple the sector entirely. CMAI’s Appeal:
The Clothing Manufacturers Association of India (CMAI) has urged the Hon’ble Prime Minister to intervene and prevent such severe damage to the garment industry. CMAI emphasized that the apparel sector is the lifeline of India’s textile heritage and employs over 12 million Indians, most of whom are women and semi-skilled or unskilled workers.

Procell: Fermented Fiber

2025-08-29T10:00:00+00:00

Textile World
Quality Fabric
Procell: Fermented Fiber

The sweater features a yarn made using 50-percent Procell/50-percent wool

Created from spent yeast, protein-based fiber Procell offers properties similar to those of wool. By Rachael S. Davis, Executive Editor As the increase in alternative and sustainable materials for textile applications grows, so does the list of interesting raw material inputs. Initially inspired by squid proteins and with funding from BioMADE, Philadelphia-based climate-positive smart textiles company Tandem Repeat Technologies Inc. has created Procell, a yarn that begins its life as low-cost spent yeast. This protein-based fiber mimics the properties offered by wool, with none of the ethical concerns relating to animal cruelty, water pollution and land degredation.

Squid ring teeth is a self-assembling protein complex found in squid tentacles. “We initially extracted the genes from squid and heterologously expressed then in yeast through precision fermentation,” explained Dr. Melik Demirel, co-founder of Tandem Repeat and Huck Endowed Chair Professor of Biomimetic Materials at The Pennsylvania State University. “However, we later found that biomass fermentation of yeast is more straightforward and cost-effective for producing commodity protein fibers.” This protein biomanufacturing approach takes the living yeast cells and transforms them into valuable products — such as textile fibers or nonwovens — using a patented fermentation microbial process. Temperature, pH, nutrient availability and microbial strain selection is carefully controlled to maximize yields, titers and productivity to ensure the process is sustainable and economically viable. According to Tandem Repeat, Procell’s greenhouse gas emission footprint of 5.39 kilograms (kg) of carbon dioxide per kg, water usage of 0.52 cubic meters per kg and land usage of 12.4 points per kg are lower than other natural fibers including cotton, lyocell and wool.

The denim is made using a 15-percent Procell/85-percent cotton blend.

Procell fibers are created using traditional wet spinning processes that are used in man-made cellulosic fiber production. From there, the staple fibers are spun into yarns, and Procell may be blended with other fiber types during spinning. “We have combined natural fibers like cotton and wool, as well as synthetics such as polyester to produce several garments,” Dr. Demirel noted. Initial apparel included a cotton blend dress and denim items, followed later by sweaters that can be purchased through the company’s own brand, Sonachic. “Procell can be crafted for various constructions, and we have developed both knitted and woven fabrics,” Dr. Demirel said. Procell has also been used to create nonwoven fabrics. According to Tandem Repeat the fiber is soft and resembles a luxury wool such as cashmere. The 100-percent vegan, sustainable protein fiber is stronger than wool, but offers warmth, lightweight and breathability equal to or better than wool, and offers similar thermal conductivity. The company’s goal is to produce Procell at a cost lower than that of wool. Dr. Demirel sees applications beyond textiles for Procell. “Our goal is to expand into other markets, including the leather, cosmetics, paper and pulp, and construction industries,” he said. “Protein fibers can serve effectively as feedstocks for all these sectors.” Tandem’s research was supported by funding from BioMADE, an Emeryville, Calif.-based Manufacturing Innovation Institute sponsored by the U.S. Department of Defense, and member of the Manufacturing USA® network tasked with creating large-scale, public-private collaboration to advance manufacturing. “With support from BioMADE, we were able to reach a higher level of technological readiness in our industry where deep-tech advances thrive with government backing and venture capital funding remains limited,” Dr. Demirel noted.

For more information, e-mail contact@ tandemrepeat.com

2025 Quarterly Issue III

TAGS
2025Vol3

From Hemp Farm To House Frame: The Hempitecture Story

2025-08-29T10:00:00+00:00

Textile World
Nonwovens / Technical Textiles
From Hemp Farm To House Frame: The Hempitecture Story

Hempitecture’s HempWool® is a 90-percent hemp fiber batt insulation material designed to replace mineral wool and fiberglass in insulation applications. It can be installed in wood or metal framing systems.

Hempitecture is bringing natural fibers, hemp in particular, to the forefront of sustainable building design. By Rachael S. Davis, Executive Editor Not every textile entrepreneur begins their journey in the textile space. Some arrive by way of a completely different path — driven by a problem they can’t ignore and a vision for change. For Matthew “Mattie” Mead, co-founder and CEO of Jerome, Idaho-based Hempitecture Inc., that moment came while studying architecture, environmental science, and entrepreneurship at Hobart College in Geneva, New York. As Mead became immersed in the world of sustainable design and materials, “I saw a big problem,” Mead said. “Buildings and their operations are responsible for nearly 40 percent of our carbon footprint. In seeking to understand how to solve that issue, I became enamored with the idea of using plant-based, sustainable fibers.” He was inspired to use hemp as a carbon-storing, high-performance material, and what started as a vision, quickly became Mead’s mission.

In 2013, Mead co-founded Hempitecture — a company he touts as a “Public Benefit Corporation with a mission to benefit both people and planet through carbon capturing mate-rials.” Mead works with Co-Founder and Chief Innovation Officer Tommy Gibbons to develop Hempitecture’s biobased construction materials. The company primarily uses decorticated and cleaned industrial hemp fiber to create its products, along with some cotton and thermoplastic fibers including polyethylene and polyester biocomponent bonding fibers. Depending on the use case, the company may also create products using polylactic acid (PLA) fibers. “Hemp is our cornerstone because it’s fast-growing, regenerative, and has ideal insulation properties,” Mead said. “We like to consider it our carbon capturing engine behind our product portfolio. We blend the hemp with other fibers, depending on the performance characteristics we are seeking to achieve.”

Hempitecture’s facility is in Jerome, Idaho, in the heartland of agricultural industrial hemp fiber production.

Jerome, Idaho, was selected for the company’s headquarters and manufacturing location because it’s in the heartland of agricultural industrial hemp fiber production, according to Mead. “From a logistical standpoint, it’s centrally located to where hemp is grown, but our factory is located right on Interstate 84, allowing efficient distribution of our finished nonwovens,” Mead shared. “In Idaho, we’ve found great team members, we’ve received support from the Idaho Department of Commerce, and we’re proud to sup-port this agricultural opportunity in Idaho, an agriculturally aligned state. “Agriculture is at the heart of what we do,” Mead emphasized. “By sourcing fibers like hemp from American farmers, we’re creating new markets for regenerative crops. We’re turning farms into supply chains and putting rural communities at the center of climate solutions.”
Hempitecture also operates five distribution centers around the country.

Hempitecture’s product portfolio includes PlantPanel™ — a continuous insulation panel made from biobased fibers for exterior or interior wall assemblies —as well as HempWool™ fiber batt insulation.

Hempitecture’s first innovation was HempWool®. This natural fiber batt insulation material contains hemp, but no wool as the name may suggest. The wool portion of the name arises from the fact that HempWool was designed to replace mineral wool and fiberglass products traditionally used in the construction business. HempWool comprises 90-percent hemp and 10-percent binder fiber. “We initially collaborated with Europe-based OEMs and other manufacturers who had experience in natural fiber insulation and nonwovens,” Mead said. “That helped us under-stand the machinery and process requirements. With their support, we developed a unique configuration of nonwoven machinery with modifications so it can handle natural fibers like hemp, which behave differently than synthetic fibers.” Eventually, Hempitecture brought the technology stateside and made it their own, modifying, improving, and ultimately scaling it into a domestic operation. Hempitecture began development of HempWool in its production facility in 2022, and after working with academic and industry partners, launched the product for sale in the U.S. market. HempWool currently is used primarily in residential construction, but Hempitecture is working on expanding its reach into other markets including industrial and commercial for wall, roof, and floor assemblies. “Current capabilities include fiber opening and cleaning, fiber treatment, airlay and thermal bonding, and nonwoven cutting,” Mead shared. “We also can offer custom formulations for partners across industries and are always open to collaborating on nonwoven projects.”

Hempitecture is focused on healthier and more sustainable alternative construction materials for the whole building including insulation and acoustic products.

Once HempWool hit the market, Hempitecture looked for other areas where its natural fiber technology could make an impact. The company is building a portfolio of whole home thermal and acoustic insulation solutions, but is not limiting itself to building products.
“Manufacturing is about continuous improvement, and we continue to develop our manufacturing technologies and capabilities to advance our product portfolio,” Mead said. “While we started with HempWool, it’s an evolving product as we continue to advance our fiber compositions, our treatment technologies and our operational efficiency.” PlantPanel™ — a continuous thermo-acoustic insulation panel made from biobased fibers for exterior or interior wall assemblies —and FiberFill™ — a blowable loose-fill insulation material ideal for retrofits and attics — became the next two products offered by Hempitecture. In addition, it offers a carpet underlay named FiberPad, and an eco-friendly building material called Hempcrete. “We also entered the cold-chain packaging sector, developing a high-performing hemp-based liner for shipping food and pharmaceuticals,” Mead said. Hempitecture utilizes cotton shoddy fiber for the cold-chain packaging products, which helps divert landfill bound textiles into new materials. “While hemp and building materials are our core focus, we also produce products for a variety of industries needing nonwoven materials using a range of different fibers,” Mead noted.

According to Mead, Hempitecture’s products compete head-to-head on thermal performance. The company has completed ASTM C518 thermal testing, ASTM E84 testing and ISO-based lifecycle assessments to back up its claims. “From an R-value perspective, we’re competitive with mineral wool and fiberglass, but our product phase shift resistance is improved over these conventional products,” Mead noted. “Hemp fiber insulation has incredible phase shift resistance — storing heat and then releasing it as temperature shifts from hot to cool, reducing heating and cooling loads,” Mead said. “It’s also highly dimensionally stable so it won’t sag or slump over time. “From an embodied carbon and health standpoint, we’re significantly better. We’re continually optimizing our products and we’re advancing our fire-resistance ratings to better align with commercial and industrial standards.”

HempWool®can be handled and cut without special tools or protective gear.

Mead notes however that there is a lot more to insulation than just R-value. In addition to making the grade on thermal performance, Hempitecture products offer other significant advantages. They are non-toxic, vapor open, carbon-storing and safe to touch. HempWool can be handled, cut and installed all without wearing gloves. Hemp also confers a natural mold- and pest-resistance. Properties can be further enhanced with the company’s proprietary fiber fortification line that can increase fiber consistency, and improve flame and pest resistance. “We also
enhance our fibers with our fiber treatment technology, which is typically borate-based chemistries — a naturally occurring mineral with a long safety record,” Mead added. In addition, Hempitecture products are landfill-safe and mostly biodegradable. “Unlike traditional insulation, which can persist for decades releasing harmful substances as it degrades, our materials break down safely,” Mead said. “Because our products are airlay thermal bonded, we do use small amounts of polymers, but are always monitoring the world of biobased bonding fibers.”

Response to Hempitecture products has been incredibly positive, especially among architects, builders and homeowners who prioritize health and sustainability. “The biggest hurdle is awareness, and people don’t always know that better alternatives exist,” Mead reflected. “We also face typical industry barriers like code compliance and cost competitiveness at scale.”

Mattie Mead (center) accepted the RISE® Innovation Award from the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry (INDA) for PlantPanel™.

In 2024, Hempitecture’s Plant-Panel received the Association of the Nonwoven Fabrics Industry’s RISE® Innovation Award. Being recognized by the nonwovens industry helped raise awareness for Hempitecture. “Winning the RISE Innovation Award put us on the radar of some major players in the nonwoven and building material industries,” Mead said. “It validated our work and opened doors for collaboration, funding and visibility in sectors we hadn’t yet tapped. We are excited about the opportunity to collaborate with mainstream players in the nonwovens and textiles industries to help custom build nonwoven solutions using our technology and capacity.”

The Hempitecture team is small, but growing. The company is eyeing an expansion in Tennessee that would be enabled in part by Department of Energy funding. Mead considers material innovation, sustainability leadership and the company’s supply chain as its biggest strengths. “We partner with companies who produce fibers to our specification, which gives us flexibility and resilience,” Mead said. “Our team also brings together architectural knowledge, manufacturing experience and startup experience, which is a rare combination. “Our culture is mission-driven, entrepreneurial, and rooted in the belief that materials can be a force for good,” Mead offered. “We value transparency, sustainability, health and performance, as well as American manufacturing.”

PlanetPanel™ X exterior rigid board thermo-acoustic insulation panels.

Long-term, Hempitecture envisions a world where natural fibers are a cornerstone of the built environment from walls to packaging and beyond. “We’re building a platform for biobased building materials,” Mead said. Our technology can be extended to new product categories including acoustic panels, molded composites and prefab building systems.” Summing up, Mead said: “The materials we build with matter. They shape our health, our climate and our economy. I believe we have a responsibility, as well as a huge opportunity, to reimagine those materials for a better future.” From an idea born in a college thesis to a growing company reshaping how buildings are made, Hempitecture has proven that natural fibers can compete with — and perhaps surpass — conventional materials. By pairing agricultural innovation with advanced manufacturing, the company is carving out new markets for regenerative crops while delivering healthier, more sustainable products for builders, homeowners, and industries beyond construction. As awareness grows and collaborations expand, Mead sees Hempitecture not just as a manufacturer, but as a catalyst for change — proof that the materials we choose can protect our planet, strengthen communities and inspire a better future. 2025 Quarterly Issue III

TAGS
2025Vol3

Your Finished Object: Vanessa’s Legacy Shawl

2025-08-25T10:00:00+00:00

Your Finished Object: Vanessa’s Legacy Shawl

A full-length shawl that can fit through a wedding ring? Read how this Alaska resident processed and spun qiviut and cashmere for this sensational surprise for her daughter. A full-length shawl that can fit through a wedding ring? Read how this Alaska resident processed and spun qiviut and cashmere for this sensational surprise for her daughter. Continue reading.

Pattern and designer Hearts, Vines, and Flowers Shawl by Grace Yaskovic. Fiber Qiviut and cashmere, plus a single strand of silk thread. Preparation Handcarded. Wheel system/spindle Russian supported spindle. Singles wraps per inch Qiviut: 48; cashmere: 55. Yarn classification/weight Cobweb. Yardage used About 2,700 yards each of the three fibers carried together. Needles Size 10 (6 mm). Finished size 45” (114 cm) long; 92” (234 cm) across at bottom hem. It began with a dream in 2021. Having lived in Alaska since 1974, I have an affinity for qiviut, the soft undercoat of the musk ox. Qiviut is known for being wonderfully fine and soft, measuring 10 to 15 microns, and it is one of the warmest natural fibers on earth. Around that time, I was introduced to a woman who raises cashmere goats in Sterling, Alaska, who had a nice amount of cloud available. My creative juices started flowing as I envisioned a handspun, handknitted shawl to leave to my daughter upon my earthly departure. She cherishes all things spun and knitted, of which I keep her abundantly supplied. !assets/images/1753916290-merrill-models-shawl.jpg “1753916290-merrill-models-shawl”)The author models her finished shawl in the wintry Alaskan landscape she calls home. So the journey began. I scoured qiviut from any source I could, from hand-plucked seasonal shed (do not attempt to gather from live wild animals) to small batches of purchased cloud or roving. I purchased the cashmere cloud from the local “goat lady,” Lee Corin. I gathered my fiber in excited anticipation and armed myself with several support spindles, which I had fallen in love with since my first visit to Grandma’s Spinning Wheel—a shop of endless yarn and fibers—in Tucson, Arizona. Experiencing the knowledge that abounds within the walls of this jewel of a place is almost a spiritual experience. I find that televised sports of any kind are the perfect opportunity to engage in spinning. I have spun my way through NBA, NFL, and MLB games, plus a few golf tournaments and even a season of the Olympics. After a year, I had not only handspun 3,000 yards each of qiviut and cashmere cobweb-weight yarn, I had also enjoyed my husband’s companionship and become acquainted with several sports figures! !assets/images/1753915751-merrill-yfo.jpg “1753915751-merrill-yfo”)Detail of Lynette’s shawl, knitted with qiviut, cashmere, and silk. The task of carding, plucking guard hairs and noils, and continual refining of the fiber to usability was time-consuming. During this time, I was employed recording fuel stats in a tiny shack on the North Slope oil field of Alaska in Prudhoe Bay. I was free to occupy my spare time during the 12- to 14-hour days, seven days a week, for at least two weeks at a time in any constructive manner. I spent countless hours with qiviut spread out on a cloth, plucking guard hairs from the accumulated cloud with tweezers to acquire the necessary amount I would need to complete my project. With my fiber in hand, I completed the spinning project in just over a year, even though I still had to keep a household running! !assets/images/1753917038-merrill-shawl-back-side.jpg “1753917038-merrill-shawl-back-side”)The back side of the shawl, which can fit through a reasonably sized wedding band. Knowing how fragile the two fibers are in a cobweb weight, I decided to carry a single strand of silk thread with them for strength. I decided not to ply, allowing more air space between the yarns. My daughter, Vanessa, requested a shawl that she could wrap herself in as well as sit upon, giving her the feeling of a butterfly’s wings encircling her (her name means “butterfly”). After deciding on a suitable pattern, I chose to keep the colors natural—the result is reminiscent of woodland butterflies. I finished the garment in about three months of intermittent knitting, and, weighing 53/4 ounces (163 grams), it can fit through a reasonably sized wedding band. I am pleased to present this garment as inspiration to create your own piece of history. Have a finished object to share? Tell us about it by sending us an email here. This article was first published in Spin OffWinter 2025. Lynette Merrill is a passionate knitter, having taught herself at the age of 16. She is 71 years old (at time of publication) and has been active in guilds in Glennallen and Soldotna, Alaska. She spends her days with her husband, Rick (also retired), living the semirural Alaskan lifestyle and knitting for enjoyment and consignment.

Spinning Slub-Free Cashmere on the Charkha

2025-08-22T10:00:00+00:00

Spinning Slub-Free Cashmere on the Charkha

This portable spinning tool isn’t just for cotton! Watch as editor Kate Larson spins This portable spinning tool isn’t just for cotton! Watch as editor Kate Larson spins Continue reading.

A Note About Cashmere on Ice
Watch Kate Spin
Working With Cashmere Cloud
Spinning Cashmere on the Charkha
Next Steps Editor’s note: Many fine-fiber animals—including cashmere goats, yaks, vicuñas, and guanacos—live in high-mountain regions where water that melts from glaciers is essential for these herds to survive. As glaciers around the world disappear due to climate change, these special animals and the communities that raise them face disastrous risks to their survival. The UN has named 2025 the International Year of Glaciers’ Preservation to acknowledge the important role that glaciers play in both the local regions in which they exist and the global climate as a whole. To raise awareness for this issue and the fiber animals we all hold dear, Long Thread Media and Wild Fibers have launched the Cashmere on Ice competition. We hope you’ll spin, stitch, or weave along with us! Simply make a project with 50% or more cashmere content to participate. There’s still time to join—submissions are open until September 1, 2025, and you’ll find all the contest details on the Cashmere on Ice website. Cheers!—Spin Off editors

A competition like Cashmere on Ice is the perfect time to indulge in a special spin. Spin Off editor Kate Larson purchased some cashmere cloud from the Pangong Craft Center—the very same cashmere that was used to insulate the piece of a glacier that inspired the Cashmere on Ice competition! Watch below to see her spinning the fiber, then read on for some helpful spinning tips!

If you’re new to charkha spinning, check out Kate’s course How to Spin on a Charkha, where she explains all the ins and outs of this amazing tool. For a quick taste of the process, check out this short video of Kate spinning on her charkha. [wpcc-iframe width=”100%” height=”650” src=”https://youtube.com/embed/tN8s_WMMvB0?feature=share” title=”Spinning Ladakh Cashmere on a Book Charkha” frameborder=”0” allow=”accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share” referrerpolicy=”strict-origin-when-cross-origin” allowfullscreen=””]

A cloud preparation, like what Kate received from the Pangong Craft Center, is neither combed nor carded. Like its name suggests, the fibers are jumbled together in a light and lofty cloud. No further preparation is necessary to spin this fiber, although you may encounter a few guard hairs that you can easily remove. !assets/images/1754610793-working-with-cashmere-cloud.jpg “1754610793-working-with-cashmere-cloud”)Most of the guard hairs have been removed from this fluffy cloud preparation, but any that remain can be plucked out as you spin.

Short-stapled fibers like cashmere and a charkha are delightful match. The charkha adds lots of twist quickly, and the abscence of a flyer means there’s no added tension on the delicate fibers. All the spinner needs to do is draft as they turn the wheel! Sometimes, though, drafting is easier said than done, and slubs appear in your yarn. Not to fear—this is part of the process and easily remedied in a process charkha spinners call double drafting.

When you encounter a slub, stop adding twist. !assets/images/1754610793-double-drafting-1.jpg “1754610793-double-drafting-1”)A slub forming as the initial twist is added to the yarn.

Gently pull to remove the slub. You may need to double draft by pinching at the base of the slub and untwisting the yarn slightly. Continue to gently draft your yarn while slowly adding more twist until the slub disappears. !assets/images/1754610793-double-drafting-2.jpg “1754610793-double-drafting-2”)Gently draft backwards to help remove the slub.

Now that the slub is gone, add your final twist, then wind on to the cop! !assets/images/1754610793-double-drafting-3.jpg “1754610793-double-drafting-3”)Once the slub is removed, add your final twist. Spinning cashmere on the charkha is a luscious experience. This cashmere from the Pangong Craft Center has a longer staple than cotton, so go slowly and be intentional about your twist. Give cashmere on the charkha a try yourself—you’ll be glad you did!

Dive deeper into making slubs—and removing them too with a Beginner Basics Tutorial.
New to charkha spinning? Check out Kate’s course, How to Spin on a Charkha.
Don’t forget to submit your project to the Cashmere on Ice competition by 5 pm Mountain Time on September 1, 2025!

Aid by trade foundation publishes annual report

2025-08-21T10:00:00+00:00

Aid by trade foundation publishes annual report

The Aid by Trade Foundation (AbTF) is on a growth track. Despite a challenging global economy, AbTF increased its income by six percent from 2023 to 2024, reaching a total of EUR 8.6 million. This revenue has been invested in comprehensive measures for the sustainable production of cotton and cashmere as well as for expanded measures to ensure transparency in global value chains. In addition to gaining new partners in 2024—including big names like Mango, Nordstrom, and CWS Workwear—AbTF was able to expand its global stakeholder network active in the production of raw materials or textiles. The fact that around 3,000 companies throughout the textile supply chain now work with raw materials verified under an AbTF standard illustrates the foundation’s global importance in international trade. “An outstanding example of what committed action in the private sector can achieve has been offered by the work of the Aid by Trade Foundation for the past 20 years,” says the entrepreneur Prof. Dr Michael Otto, who founded AbTF. He adds, “This annual report is therefore more than just a matter of taking inventory. Rather, it shows how much AbTF, its standards, its partner companies, and the raw material producers make possible, united in the conviction that they can give the world a better future.” More Than 100 Fashion Brands and Textile Companies Use AbTF’s Standards
**Including over 100 fashion brands and textile companies, a growing number of international trading partners are enriching their supply chains with raw materials produced in accordance with AbTF’s sustainability standards: Cotton made in Africa© (CmiA), CmiA Organic, and The Good Cashmere Standard© (GCS). This makes these standards market leaders. GCS, for instance, is the world’s only standard for sustainably produced cashmere wool from Inner Mongolia, and its importance for trade is growing continuously; due in part to these factors, the total quantity of textiles containing GCS-verified cashmere wool grew by 30 percent from 2023 to 2024. CmiA, for its part, continues to find success, with more than a third of all cotton produced in Africa being verified under CmiA and entering the global textile market as such. **Innovations Promote Cashmere Goats’ Welfare and Greatly Increase Cotton Yields
**The attractiveness of the AbTF standards was boosted significantly by their field results in 2024. For one, over 800,000 cotton farmers and 5,500 goat herders worked in accordance with AbTF’s sustainability standards to supply the international textile market last year. For another, independent verifications confirmed that all AbTF standards are highly effective in terms of profitability, environmental protection, and dignified working conditions. AbTF also conducted pioneering projects to, for instance, expand cashmere model farms, introduce an animal welfare assessment for cashmere goats, and promote regenerative cultivation methods in the cotton sector. The latter was a key point of focus and progress in the past year, as AbTF’s Regenerative Cotton Standard© (RCS) was successfully implemented in Tanzania and India. Through RCS, AbTF is pursuing a forward-looking approach that focusses on the regeneration of ecosystems. RCS is already finding success, with its use of biochar on demonstration fields increasing yields by 15 percent. AbTF has also achieved success in environmental protection, where the focus was on improving biodiversity while combatting soil degradation and the effects of climate change; better soil measures, for example, resulted in harvests up to 37 percent larger on demonstration fields. Production of CmiA Organic cotton surpassed the previous year’s total by 50 percent. Thanks to its social component, the standard was able to complement its environmental benefits with achievements in both cultivation and trade. Through the CmiA Community Cooperation Programme (CCCP), AbTF contributed to the improvement of the living conditions of cotton farmers and their families in Africa, for example, by financing educational and health projects that had promoted nearly 100 women’s clubs and built more than 100 classrooms by the end of 2024. **Seamless Traceability, From Field to Shelf, Through Blockchain Technology and Tracking System
**As legal egulations continue to grow, it can only be a benefit that AbTF’s systems already enable textile companies and fashion brands to ensure the complete traceability of their raw materials from production to the finished product. In 2024, the foundation further expanded both its own tracking systems and the use of modern Fibercoins™ technology. To offer companies additional security in their supply chains, AbTF developed the Transparency Standard in 2024. **“The past year’s many successes are once again proof that environmental protection and support for smallholder communities can very well be achieved by mobilising the private sector,” says Tina Stridde, the managing director of the Aid by Trade Foundation, qualifying, “This does require both dedicated partners and an approach that is both practical and innovative.” Click here to read the full report: https://www.aidbytrade.org/en/annual-report-2024/

9,850SubscribersSubscribe

[