Textiles Review |

Leading Fashion Brands Step Up To Unlock The Next Chapter Of Circulose

2025-12-30T10:00:00+00:00

“These partnerships are an important milestone in Circulose’s new chapter. After a year of resetting our strategy and intensely engaging with brands, this wave of commitments shows our efforts are paying off. Their support will help to unlock the next phase of our production journey. We are proud to enable brands who are serious about transforming the textile industry” says Jonatan Janmark, Circulose CEO.

KIPAS Launches fibR-e: The Recycling Breakthrough To Solve Fashion’s Polyester Problem

2025-12-30T10:00:00+00:00

The platform removes accessories during processing rather than through manual sorting, cutting labour and bottlenecks. It decolourises blended fabrics to produce cleaner outputs. At its core is a patented molecular recycling technology developed by Meltem Kimya that breaks polyester down to its building blocks and rebuilds it without creating microplastics, allowing repeated recycling without loss of quality.

Early analysis shows that producing polyester entirely from textile waste through fibR-e cuts emissions by nearly 74 per cent compared with virgin production. “Recycling has barely scratched the surface of the polyester problem,” said Halit Gümüser, CEO of KIPAS Textiles. “With fibR-e, we can take real post-consumer waste in all its complexity and return it to the market as certified, high-quality filament yarns and staple fibres. This is how the industry moves from linear to circular, not through pilots but through commercial scale.”

fibR-e is built on a multi-year partnership between KIPAS and specialist companies, with Meltem Kimya providing the molecular recycling expertise that underpins the fibR-e platform.

As a global yarn and fabric producer, KIPAS will channel fibR-e materials directly into its own supply chain, enabling bulk production at competitive pricing. The outputs are traceable, performance-tested and designed to meet commercial quality standards while helping brands reduce virgin material use and prepare for stricter regulations.

fibR-e marks a turning point. It shows that closing the loop on polyester waste can now move from ambition to industrial reality.

For more information, visit www.kipastextiles.com; www.kipasfibre.com

Jeanologia Celebrates Its 30th Anniversary Transforming How Jeans Are Produced Worldwide

2025-12-30T10:00:00+00:00

Beyond technology, the company highlights that its greatest contribution has always been its people. Today, 200 professionals form a multicultural team united by the same mission and passion, to prove that a different way of producing is possible. Their expertise, creativity and purpose have been key to building a global ecosystem based on collaboration.

Looking ahead, Jeanologia continues advancing toward its MissionZero vision, aiming to eliminate the environmental impact of garment finishing. The company is now preparing the next major shift by integrating artificial intelligence, robotization and advanced automation to develop smarter, more precise, and efficient processes. These technologies will bring production even closer to the designer, connect creativity with the factory in real time and enable brands to respond more accurately to consumer demand without generating overproduction.

Jeanologia will also continue leading solutions that protect one of the planet’s most valuable resources, water. From full recycling systems to new finishing methods with minimal consumption, the mission remains unchanged, to eliminate the water impact of textile production and accelerate the transition toward truly circular models.

“We are not just celebrating 30 years; we are celebrating three decades of real impact. We have proven that technology can transform the industry and make it more human, sustainable, and efficient. And this is just the beginning. Our commitment is to continue driving a production model connected to designers, creativity, and real consumer demand, applying AI, automation and solutions that protect essential resources like water,” says Carmen Silla, Global Marketing Director at Jeanologia.

Thirty years later, Jeanologia remains driven by the same passion it started with, now reinforced by the strength, knowledge, and vision of a global leader. Its purpose remains unchanged, to create a clean, creative, and future-ready textile industry. The best of Jeanologia is still to come.

Barmag: First PA66 Spinning Plant With EvoQuench Successfully Commissioned

2025-12-30T10:00:00+00:00

Strategic partnership for PA6 and PA6.6 solutions

At the end of 2023, Barmag and Nanshan Fashion signed a strategic cooperation agreement for polyamide POY and DTY. This laid the foundation for chemical fiber production at Nanshan Fashion. The company is part of the publicly traded Nanshan Group and is one of the top 500 companies in China.

Wool’s Rebound: The New Era Of Wool & Protein Fibers

2025-12-18T10:00:00+00:00

According to the press release, the market value for wool is predicted to almost double from $34.9 billion in 2022 to $63.2 billion by 2033.

Once a wardrobe staple along with cotton, wool lost market share with the advent of man-made fibers. Concerns about animal welfare also painted wool as a less than desirable fiber choice. But the natural advantages of wool — including warmth, durability, elasticity, odor resistance, temperature regulation, moisture management, resilience and breathability, among other properties — make it too valuable to exclude from the fiber choice landscape. As a 100-percent natural performance fiber, wool also is biodegradable, renewable and recyclable, making it a perfect fiber for a sustainable ecosystem.

Beyond luxury fashion, where Woolmark reports wool emerged as a key fiber in recent Spring/Summer collections, wool’s natural properties and seasonal adaptability are motivating sports brands to launch innovative wool apparel.

“As citizens demand more from what they wear — comfort, performance, traceability and responsibility — merino wool is meeting the moment,” said Woolmark Managing Director John Roberts. “With leading influencers and brands alike embracing its story, it’s no surprise demand is rising across luxury fashion, sportswear and lifestyle. It’s the fiber that truly delivers, naturally.”

Following is a snapshot of some companies and apparel/footwear brands that are championing the use of wool fiber.

According to Andy Wynne, CEO of New Zealand-based Nuyarn®, “The wool industry has undergone a remarkable transformation.” Wynne sees wool escaping its traditional categories of suits, formalwear and sweaters, among other categories, and becoming a “legitimate performance and comfort material across diverse categories including everyday hoodies, footwear uppers, women’s activewear, technical sportswear, loungewear, athleisure and beyond.”

Technology advancements, such as Nuyarn spinning technology, are helping drive the shift in tradition. Nuyarn’s twist-free spinning technology drafts superfine merino wool with a high-performance nylon filament carrier yarn to produce an ultrafine, two-ply yarn with more volume and aeration than merino yarns made using traditional worsted spun-yarn technologies (See “Nuyarn: Wool A New Way,” TW, January/February 2023). According to the company, the light weight and softness of the resulting yarns make them perfect candidates for next-to-skin applications in baselayer garments in particular.

Rather than avoiding the conversation, Wynne prefers to tackle historical concerns about wool head on. The company uses transparency, certification and education including full Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) certification, which ensures rigorous animal welfare standards and traceability from farm to finished product. “We’re also bluesign®, GOTS, and OEKO-TEX certified, demonstrating our commitment across the entire production chain,” Wynne shared.

Ibex’s Men’s Mammoth Full Zip Hoodie features Nuyarn® technology.

Nuyarn’s primary customers are active outdoor and lifestyle brands seeking to integrate natural fiber performance garments into their product lines. “Our development process is highly collaborative and tailored to each brand’s specific needs and customer base,” Wynne said. “As a fully vertical business — controlling every-thing from yarn production to fabric manufacturing to finished garments, we can offer brands a streamlined partnership with a single entity rather than managing multiple suppliers.”

Just some of the apparel brands using Nuyarn include:

Artilect — A long-time proponent of Nuyarn, Artilect offers baselayer products and accessories made using the yarn including the Flatiron 185 crew and leggings, which are made using a baselayer yarn blend — 91-percent superfine Nuyarn merino wool and 9-percent nylon — knit into a 185 gram per square meter (gsm) fabric that is bluesign certified. Artilect uses hangtags to share the benefits of Nuyarn with consumers under the “More than merino” tagline. The brand also incorporates a TAP wifi-enabled sticker on the hang-tags so users can scan using a smartphone to learn more online.
Ibex — Ibex features Nuyarn in its Woolies Pro Tech Q-Zip and Woolies Pro Tech Bottom baselayers. The fabric, comprised of 85-percent merino wool and 15-percent nylon, weighs 125 gsm making it Ibex’s lightest weight baselayer ever. While Ibex does not promote Nuyarn specifically on the hangtags, it touts the benefits of merino in a thoughtfully designed hangtag. The company does explain Nuyarn and all of its benefits on its website in the product descriptions.
Lé Bent — Committed to performance, apparel brand Lé Bent features Nuyarn in its Featherweight Hooded Merino Crew top and Featherweight bottoms. The 125 gsm fabric is made using a Signature Merino Blend that contains 60- percent merino, 25-percent bamboo and 15-percent nylon.

Nuyarn also has established partnerships with Allbirds and HOKA, and the footwear industry currently makes up one of the company’s largest categories.

Additionally, Wynne announced that the Herculan® technology has allowed the company to transition carpet wool — coarse fibers historically relegated to flooring and upholstery applications only — into high-performance wearable garments. “We’ll be launching a performance wool fleece using this material in fall 2026,” he shared.

“Wool isn’t a fiber of the past, it’s a fiber of the future and I wouldn’t be in this business if I didn’t believe that,” Wynne said. “We’re at an inflection point where consumers are actively seeking alternatives to synthetic materials due to growing awareness of microplastic pollution and climate concerns. Athletes and outdoor enthusiasts are driving demand for natural, sustainable performance options, and technology like Nuyarn makes those choices viable without performance compromise.”

Woolx’s Stella Leggings represent the brand’s warmest baselayer.

Woolx was founded in 2012 in Endicott, N.Y. as family-run brand focused on merino wool clothing that combines technical performance and everyday comfort. The product line incorporates essentials, pajamas, shapewear and layers, in ultra-heavyweight fabrics, featherlight pieces and everything in between for all seasons.

Traditional wool has an average thickness of 30 microns, while typical merino wool — known for its fineness — has an average thickness of 21 microns. To avoid any itchy, scratchy sensations against the skin, Woolx uses a super-fine merino wool with an average thickness of only 17 microns in many of its products.

“While wool might make some people think of their grandma’s scratchy sweater, this is not that,” said Nicole Calleo, co-founder and CEO, Woolx. “We’ve taken all the natural benefits of traditional wool —temperature regulation, durability and comfort — and reimagined them in a modern, insanely soft merino that’s as stylish as it is functional.” In addition, all of Woolx’s clothing is ethically sourced and responsibly made. “Every Woolx piece is certified non-mulesed ensuring the highest standards of animal welfare and sustainability, ” Calleo said.

Woolx offers the Stella Leggings and Piper Pocket Leggings. Stella represents one of Woolx’s warmest baselayers for fall and winter, while Piper is a merino wool baselayer with functional side pockets for all-day comfort and performance.

“The idea for Woolx’s merino wool baselayer leggings came from a simple need: clothing that could keep up with active, outdoor lifestyles without com-promising comfort,” Calleo said. “The founders wanted something that could move easily, breathe well, and regulate temperature during hikes, runs or even when used in everyday wear. Merino wool turned out to be the perfect solution — warm when it’s cold, cool when it’s warm, and soft enough to wear all day.”

The company recently extended the use of merino wool to mini Woolx, a new line of kids’ baselayers.

Ciele Athletics has launched its first Woolmark-certified merino wool collection of headwear and apparel.

Based in Montreal, Ciele Athletics— focused on headwear and apparel for runners — was founded in 2014 by Jeremy Bresnen and Mike Giles. “We are all very passionate about running, technical garments, responsibility, and doing the best we can as individuals and an organization,” said Dan Marrett, global marketing director, Ciele Athletics.

Ciele works with suppliers to develop technical fabrics and performance constructions tailored for running and movement. The brand recently partnered with Woolmark to launch its first-ever Woolmark-certified merino wool collection of apparel and headwear for winter. According to Ciele, each piece is independently tested and meets the Woolmark standards for durability, colorfastness and quality. Pieces in the line include beanies, balaclavas and baselayers made using 100-percent wool as well as merino/silk blended yarns.

“We’ve been exploring natural performance fibers for a while and that exploration led to our Sorino™ fabric line,” reported Ciele’s design team. “Partnering with an industry leader like Woolmark felt like the right move to help us highlight everything that makes merino exceptional. The Woolmark certification gives runners confidence that they’re getting the best quality merino possible. It’s a mark of fiber integrity, performance and traceability — all things that align with how we approach design and manufacturing at Ciele.”

Ciele is reimagining merino as a year-round performance fabric, not just a cold weather choice. “For us, reimagining merino means leaning into what it already does best and redesigning around its strengths to create true, all-season performance,” the company shared.

Paka innovates using alpaca fiber working with indigenous people in Peru to create its clothing and accessories.

While sheep’s wool currently is experiencing unprecedented demand, Peru-based PAKA is firmly focused on another fiber in the protein family — alpaca. Founded in 2017 by Kris Cody, the certified B-Corp. business works directly with non-governmental organizations alongside the indigenous people in Peru to create its natural, all-purpose clothing and accessories (See “PAKA: Tri-Blend Fiber Trio,” TW, November/December 2022). PAKA’s mission remains one of connecting people to where their clothing comes from and supporting the communities who make the garments.

“At PAKA, we’re continuously exploring how natural performance can evolve across categories,” said Megan Krajco, PAKA Design director. “Our foundation began with alpaca fiber in sweaters, but our vision is to build a complete ecosystem of products that support everyday explorers.”

Most recently, Paka has expanded into the outerwear category with its patented PAKAFILL® alpaca insulation material, which can replace down or synthetic fiber fill options, providing needed warmth without weight. PAKAFILL is featured in the brand’s Apu parkas and Mayu vests and jackets for men and women.

One interesting product that resulted after a 2022 PAKAFILL puffer launch, was a packing cube. In contrast to the company’s alpaca focused products, the upcycled packing cubes are made using deadstock polyester shell fabric left over from puffer production. The company was determined not to send the unusable material to landfills and came up with the idea for the packing cubes.

“From day one when Kris originally founded PAKA, our focus has been to help consumers connect to our natural world, make more conscious choices and support the Peruvian communities where our products come from,” said Laura Rysz, senior director of Brand and Marketing, PAKA. “That mission truly remains at the core of everything we do today, from the decisions we make on product development to starting team meetings with PAKA Foundation updates.” The foundation was formed in early 2025 to support “alpacas, alpaqueros, weavers and education for the Peruvian communities we work with,” Rysz shared.

PAKA just announced its first-ever Heritage Collection, co-created directly with master Quechuan artisans in Peru. The company gives back 5 percent from sales of the collection to the artisans’ non-governmental organization.

PAKA has also branched out into underwear and continues to innovate in knitwear building on “The Hoodie,” the original sweater PAKA developed. In addition, “the alpaca fiber in every PAKA item now is traceable back to the source,” noted Krajco.

“The wool/protein fiber market has made an incredible shift toward transparency, traceability and regenerative land management that was not part of the mainstream conversation 10 years ago,” Krajco offered. “At the same time, technology is allowing us to enhance what nature already perfected — through improved spinning, dyeing, and knitting techniques that preserve fiber integrity and reduce the environmental impact. What excites us the most is the fusion of tradition and innovation. We’re using modern tools to amplify the story nature already tells through fiber.”

As wool and other protein fibers step back into the spotlight, the apparel industry is seeing a convergence of innovation, transparency and consumer demand. Whether it’s Nuyarn pushing the boundaries of yarn engineering, Woolx refining next-to-skin comfort, Ciele reimagining merino for performance, Allbirds redefining footwear rules, or PAKA building a modern ecosystem around alpaca, these companies illustrate how nature and technology can thrive together. In a landscape once dominated by synthetics, wool and its protein-fiber counterparts are reshaping the future of performance, comfort and sustainability.

Allbirds: Footwear Disruptor Launches PFAS-Free, Fully Waterproof Shoes

A champion of wool since its founding in 2015, footwear brand Allbirds, San Francisco, recently introduced its first fully waterproof collection in three silhouettes — the Wool Runner NZ Waterproof, Wool Runner NZ Mid Waterproof and the Wool Cruiser Waterproof. Each shoe upper is made using merino wool and is treated with C-Zero per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS)-free durable water repellent (DWR). An additional breathable, waterproof membrane placed between the upper and interior lining further prevents water from penetrating the upper and reaching the feet.

“We were really excited about C-Zero DWR because it gave us the all-weather performance we needed, without having to use PFAS,” said Adrian Nyman, chief design officer, Allbirds. “In the design and development process, we explored different PFAS-free DWRs an ultimately selected C-zero because it delivered the perfect balance of water-repellency, durability, and played well with our toolkit of natural materials.”

Allbirds previously offered a weather-resistant Mizzle style, but had not yet developed a fully waterproof, all-weather option for showers, heavy rain or slushy conditions. “We wanted to redefine what waterproof shoes could be, with an Allbirds twist,” Nyman, said. “While most waterproof shoes lean utilitarian and technical, we believe that by looking to natural materials like wool, we can bring something new and exciting to this space.”

When Allbirds got its start, wool was not material ordinarily used in footwear applications. “But our founders knew it had incredible properties that could be put to use,” Nyman said. In 2016, when Allbirds introduced its first shoe, the Wool Runner, the product “flew in the face of all the ‘usual rules’ of footwear, particularly because of the use of merino wool, an untapped natural material in an industry so often dominated by virgin synthetics,” Nyman noted. “Almost 10 years later, Allbirds has sold nearly a pair of Wool Runners every minute, and the style has become a mainstay in wardrobes around the world — safe to say the founders were onto something!”

2025 Quarterly Issue IV

VDMA Companies Outline Major Benefits In Finishing – And Now Dyeing Too

2025-12-18T10:00:00+00:00

Michael Schuhmann, Global Marketing Finishing at Archroma Textile Effects, explained that typical key functions provided in textile finishing include sweat and odor control, water repellence and UV resistance. Softeners are primarily applied to make fabrics more comfortable while other finishes provide reduced crease formation for easy-care properties. The traditional padding or exhaust techniques for applying these finishes require huge volumes of water and energy intensive drying.

Spray application, by contrast, requires much less water due to drastically reduced ‘pick up’ – the amount of liquid that a fabric absorbs and retains, determining how much finishing agent remains in the fabric. This also enables significantly faster drying, making process speeds of up to 100 metres per minute possible, depending on the fabric.

“As the global fashion brands commit to reducing their emissions, the textile processing industry must respond by adopting safer chemistries with resource-saving processes such as spray application,” Schuhmann said.

Precision

Rick Stanford, Vice President Global Business Development for Textiles at BW Converting, explained that at the core of the Baldwin TexCoat G4 technology are precision valves that were originally developed for the offset printing industry and have been refined over the past 40 years through more than 40,000 installations globally.

“These enable extremely precise spray flows which are controlled by proprietary software algorithms,” he said.

Over 100 TexCoat G4 units have been installed worldwide and all three companies are enjoying notable success with bed sheeting manufacturers in Pakistan.

“Our first TexCoat G4 in Pakistan was installed in Spring of 2024 for a manufacturer using Archroma chemistry and a ten-chamber Monforts MONTEX stenter,” Stanford explained. “When using the padder at this mill, the pickup rate was 65% and with TexCoat G4 we were able to reduce that to 27%. As a result, the customer was able to increase the MONTEX speed from 60 metres a minute to 100 metres a minute, while also reducing the operating temperature in the stenter. We have subsequently sold 30 TexCoat G4 units in Pakistan, driven primarily by the system’s proven productivity and efficiency gains.”

Energy savings

“A BW Converting Baldwin TexCoat G4 unit is now installed at the Monforts Advanced Technology Center (ATC) for trials and fully complementing spray finishing operations are our multiple energy saving innovations,” added Saskia Kuhlen, Monforts Engineer for Textile Technologies. “MONTEX stenters are equipped with the TwinAir air volume regulation system as well as the TwinTherm system for temperature control and feature CADstreamE variable nozzles. These features enable full adjustment to a specific fabric width for either higher operational speeds or lower electrical energy. A further benefit is the150-mm wide advanced insulation system inside the stenter frame”.

Further Monforts modules for optimizing processes include the the coaTTex unit for the knife coating of paste and foam application and the EcoApplicator, a kiss-coating technology for the indirect application of finishes on one or both sides of a fabric, with a stenter production speed up to 100m/min. Both can be integrated into existing lines.

The Monforts Energy Tower and EcoBooster are meanwhile modules for air/air heat exchanging, for heat recovery from the exhaust flow of thermal systems. They can also be retrofitted to existing stenter frames, relaxation dryers, infrared pre-dryers and hotflues.

“We continue to explore the best heating options for every customer, with optimised combinations in order to make our lines as energy efficient as possible,” Kuhlen said. “We have also been deeply investigating the potential of green hydrogen as a further option for the future.”

BW Converting’s Baldwin TexChroma™

In response to a big market demand, the three technology partners are now turning their attention to the dyeing process.

At ITMA Asia + CITME in Singapore, from October 28-31, they will introduce the resource-saving combination of THERMEX continuous dyeing ranges with the new BW Converting Baldwin TexChroma™ spray dyeing system.

“We are excited to introduce the Baldwin TexChroma because spray dyeing is the future,” said Stanford. “We’ve been cautious about providing details on TexChroma too early, but now we’re ready and look forward to outlining its benefits in Singapore with interested customers. We will also be installing a TexChroma unit on a THERMEX line at the Monforts ATC in 2026.”

Monforts is at stand A301 in Hall 3 at ITMA Asia + CITME and BW Converting at stand B201 in Hall 8.

Upcoming Exhibition

2025-12-18T10:00:00+00:00

All things going well ( if these lockdowns ever end) I shall be having a small exhibition in the Sparc Gallery at ArcYinnar starting on the 9th of October until the 31st of October ( It was supposed to start this Saturday). I must admit to being less than enthused creating work until recently because I was not even sure the exhibition would happen and what is the point of creating new work when all it does is sit in the house until maybe, someone offers to buy something. I did have some booklets made entitled Morning Walks in the Pandemic- its a bit of a vanity project really- very limited print run which makes it on the expensive side. I walked most mornings during the reign of the Pandemic these last 18 months and I feel fortunate to have had access to such a wonderful little bushland reserve. I took lots of photos and also wrote down random thoughts when I got home from my walk which I have fashioned into a poem of sorts. I have also created new work in response to my walks, inspired by pickings and my photos. When my exhibition goes live I will also post on my blog with the sale prices of each piece. You will make an artist very very happy if you see something that catches your eye enough to want to make it yours. I will also sell some of the monoprinted and screen printed fabrics I have created especially for this exhibition. Again I shall post those on the 9th of October.

So I want to share some of the work I have been making. It is possible to purchase the booklet- which is 32 pages including covers and is A5 size and has been printed in full colour on quality satin finish paper. The booklet was designed by @s.galtrydesign. Here are some pages from the booklet. The price is $25 inclusive of postage to anywhere in the world. I have only had a limited number printed.

In a way the extra week before the opening of the exhibition has created the opportunity to create more work, though the space is not large. I will give you a bit of a taster of some of the things that will be on display. But I will share the whole exhibition on the 9th of October.

The above is an A4 sized piece which has been monoprinted and machine stitched.

Forest pieces ( 85 cm x 83 cm) hand dyed forest fabric hand printed with bracken and gum leaves, machine stitched.

Screen printed onto khadi paper- nardoo from a photograph I took in the Bushland Reserve.

Mono printed on hand dyed khadi which had previously been printed with a linocut ( I didn’t like the resulting linocut print too much- not enough graphic dynamic but the fabric was too nice not to do something with)

Monprinted A4 size- the one above has been entirely stitched by hand. Below is a monoprint before stitching. These have been printed onto hand dyed fabric.

There will be more works like this on display plus a few other inventions like pockets and a gum leaf free fall hanging. There will also be some hand made and printed concertina booklets and of course pods, pods, pods. It is possible to enroll for the Pods, Pods, Pods on-line class. You will find details for the class and payment button in the link I have provided. I have decided that I will send out the notes and video when payment is made and then I will arrange a zoom session later in October ( that schedule depends a little on what happens with lockdowns). And yes pods are multiplying and accumulating.

I will also be commencing another Traveller’s Blanket Class on 25 October- this will be the last class for this year as the course takes around 8 weeks though I keep the Facebook group open for longer as stitching a Traveller’s Blanket takes time. If you look at my previous post which I have linked then you will find a bit of a description of this class as well as a Payment button.

Trivantage® named finalist in Window Fashion VISION Readers’ Choice Awards

2025-12-18T10:00:00+00:00

The awards were a “landmark peer-driven program honoring the brands, products, professionals and innovations shaping the future of the window coverings industry,” according to Window Fashion VISION.

Industry professionals could vote for a wide range of categories, including textiles, hardware, machinery, supplies, and more. Over 21,000 votes were cast in a one-month period, underscoring the enthusiasm to champion excellence in the industry.

Trivantage provides its customers hassle-free ordering, fast shipping, and tailored customer service. A one-stop shop for designers and workrooms, their 9,000+ products include fabrics, essential notions, tools, tapes, and more from industry-leading brands. To learn more, visit https://www.trivantage.com/designers-workrooms.

Serge Ferrari Group Introduces New Colors For Batyline® Eden

2025-12-18T10:00:00+00:00

“We’re excited to introduce this new color story for Batyline Eden,” said Laurent Pellequer, Furniture and Marine Market Manager, Serge Ferrari North America. “These shades were developed to inspire designers who want to bring both refinement and joy into outdoor living. The palette reflects a balance of vibrancy and softness, expanding the possibilities for creating inviting, on-trend spaces without compromising on the technical excellence our customers expect.”

Batyline Eden continues to exemplify Serge Ferrari Group’s commitment to delivering sustainable, high-performance materials that support creativity in outdoor design. For more information about Batyline Eden and Serge Ferrari Group’s full outdoor textile portfolio, visit www.sergeferrarigroup.com/us

Panda Biotech’s Dixie Carter: First Mover In U.S. Industrial Hemp

2025-12-18T10:00:00+00:00

And that is the heart of the story, something that’s much bigger than a plant or a company, but is a new industry from farm field through final products.

Carter recently sat down with Textile World to share her take on creating a new industrial hemp ecosystem.

TW: How did the idea of developing a scalable industrial hemp ecosystem take shape?

Carter: After decades of building clean energy projects, Panda saw industrial hemp as the next frontier in sustainability. The same principles that powered Panda Energy’s success — innovation, efficiency and environmental responsibility — now drive Panda Biotech as we build a fully integrated, zero-waste hemp fiber ecosystem here in America.

TW: How did your previous executive experiences assist you in your role at Panda?

Carter: Throughout my career, I’ve led collaborations with some of the world’s most recognized brands across entertainment, fashion, merchandising and industry. My expertise lies in building brands that connect deeply with people — through storytelling, marketing strategy, global partner-ships and capital development. At Panda Biotech, those same principles apply. We’re building a movement as much as a business — reintroducing American-grown, American-processed hemp fiber to the global textile market.

TW: How does Chairman Bob Carter’s “no excuses” leadership style, influence your management approach?

Carter: Bob’s no excuses leadership sets a tone of accountability and action. He believes every challenge has a solution —and that mindset has become the heartbeat of Panda Biotech’s culture. This mindset reinforces that there’s always a way forward, but it requires discipline, collaboration, and an unwillingness to let obstacles become excuses.

TW: What milestones has Panda Biotech achieved in the development of American Hemp?

Carter: Panda Biotech’s momentum has been built through a series of strategic milestones from purchasing the building, sourcing the right equipment and building out our facility, raising capital, finding the right seed to grow in our region, partnering with farmers and then working with them to have a successful harvest, commissioning the equipment, working with mills to dial in the right fiber for mass production, and so much more. Panda reinforced each milestone to build credibility, capacity, confidence, and a foundation for a truly American hemp supply chain with global reach and long-term sustainability.

One of the four hemp processing infeed conveyors at Panda Biotech’s Hemp Gin

TW: How has Panda’s sustainability focus impacted your choices in designing the Panda hemp gin?

Carter: Sustainability is not a single pillar of Panda’s business — it’s the foundation of everything we do. From the outset, our goal was to demonstrate that industrial hemp can be scaled in a manner that protects both people and the planet. We built the Panda Hemp Gin in Wichita Falls, Texas, to reflect that commitment in every detail.

Panda’s facility is the most advanced, large-scale industrial hemp processing operation in the Western Hemisphere — engineered for zero waste. Our mechanical cottonization process transforms U.S.-grown hemp into a fine, textile-grade fiber, eliminating the use of water or chemicals typically associated with degumming or scouring. Every part of the plant is utilized across multiple value streams.

TW: Building any facility is challenging enough, but what about making choices — like choosing to pursue mechanical cottonization or using renewable energy?

Carter: From the outset, our goal was to develop a model for large-scale natural fiber processing that could be both environmentally clean and commercially viable — not a pilot project, but a proof of concept for U.S. manufacturing. Our products are OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 certified, USDA BioPreferred®, and meet the highest standards for clean fiber production.

The fiber refining line installed at the 500,000-square-foot former GM facility.

Choosing mechanical cottonization was a pivotal decision. We considered bringing degumming in-house, but the water and chemical requirements ran counter to our sustainability goals. Instead, Panda created a textile-grade fiber using only mechanical cottonization, which had notably fewer short fibers and bundles, and was finer, softer, and longer — similar to degummed and scoured fiber. While this took us longer to achieve, we now have the best and best-priced, mechanically cottonized, textile-grade fiber in the world, at half the price of degummed hemp fiber. This process enables hemp to integrate seamlessly into existing cotton spinning systems, which is crucial for broad textile adoption.

TW: The Wichita Gin is a substantial development. How did you get your arms around the project, and what was the key to managing a team to execute the considerable plan?

Carter: From the outset, we knew that building the Panda Hemp Gin would be unlike any industrial project ever undertaken in this sector— both in scale and technical complexity. We traveled the world examining equipment and hemp facilities. We assembled an exceptional team of experts in mechanical design, automation, and industrial construction, many with decades of experience in large-scale facilities for the cotton, energy, and ag-processing industries. The state-of-the-art processing line, if measured end-on-end, spans 700 yards — or 7 football fields — with three miles of overhead pneumatic ducting, custom-engineered decortication systems, and a continuous flow design that has never been implemented for hemp at this capacity.

A project of this size demands clarity, collaboration, and commitment. We aligned every engineer and operator around one vision — to build some-thing historic — and that shared purpose made the impossible achievable.

TW: What is your personal connection to Wichita Falls and Seymour, Texas?

Carter: Our family had a ranch in Seymour, Texas, for more than 20 years, so we spent time in the closest big city, Wichita Falls. When we were searching for a building for our first hemp gin, our focus was on very large industrial buildings with high ceilings. When we found a 500,000-square-foot former GM facility on a 97-acre campus that also happened to be in a city where our family had history, we knew we had the perfect place.

TW: Panda’s Gin is just part of the story. Can you address Panda’s concentration on the hemp ecosystem — from the farm to merchantable product like the “Pay-to-Grow” program?

Carter: The Panda Hemp Gin is the center-piece of a much larger vision — building a truly scalable and sustainable hemp fiber ecosystem here in the United States. From the outset, we recognized that processing capacity alone wouldn’t be sufficient. To make hemp viable at scale, you need to connect every link in the chain, including regenerative farming, world-class mills, and finished consumer products.

That’s why we’ve invested heavily in programs that support farmers and mitigate risk for participation. Our Pay-to-Grow program was a cornerstone of that effort for us at the beginning. It ensured growers were compensated for their work while we provided them with genetically proven and consistent seed, agronomic guidance, and a guaranteed market for their harvested stalks. It was a true partnership model that fostered trust and created economic opportunities for American producers.

Beyond the farm, we’ve built relationships with yarn and textile mills, nonwoven manufacturers, and brands that are eager to integrate our U.S.-grown hemp fiber into their supply chains. The result is a fully domestic, traceable, and circular model — from seed to fiber to finished product — that helps revitalize rural economies while advancing the next generation of sustainable materials.

Panda uses only mechanical cottonization, which uses no water and yields fewer short fibers and bundles and at half the price of degummed and scoured hemp fiber.

TW: What is your vision for the future of industrial hemp?

Carter: Hemp is not a fashion trend. It is the future of textiles and fashion. Scientifically proven to absorb more carbon dioxide per acre than any forestry or commercial crop, industrial hemp is the most transformative natural fiber opportunity of our time. It’s renewable, traceable, and circular by design— and it can be grown and processed at scale right here in the United States. Our vision is a global textile industry where hemp stands alongside cotton and synthetic fibers as a core, mainstream fiber — delivering performance, sustainability, and resilience. Early demand is coming from brands and mills that want to decarbonize their supply chains, starting with denim and knits. The long-term potential of hemp touches every sector of textiles.

TW: Are there any significant challenges in developing a vibrant industrial hemp future?

Carter: Any time a new natural fiber enters the global supply chain, the biggest challenge is consistency — mills and brands need to trust that the fiber will perform the same way, every time. Our focus has been on derisking the transition by producing cottonized hemp fiber that integrates seamlessly into existing spinning systems. We’ve partnered closely with leading mills to conduct extensive spinning trials, optimize blending ratios, and verify quality at scale. By delivering both performance data and a reliable domestic supply chain, we’re helping brands adopt hemp with confidence.

TW: Where does Panda Biotech go from here?

Carter: With the Panda Hemp Gin now fully operational, our focus turns to expanding the ecosystem — deepening partnerships with mills, manufacturers, and brands who are ready to integrate U.S.-grown, low-impact hemp fiber into their supply chains.

We’re also advancing our bioproducts portfolio, using every part of the plant to create renewable solutions across textiles, nonwovens, and industrial applications. At the same time, we’re working to strengthen our grower network, ensuring that regenerative hemp cultivation continues to create opportunity for U.S. farmers.

In many ways, this is just the beginning. The infrastructure is built, the partnerships are forming, and the demand for sustainable, traceable materials has never been stronger.

The editors of TW appreciate the opportunity to sit down with Panda Biotech’s President Dixie Carter. Her vision is both deep and wide with a bright future for American hemp. As Carter states, “Our mission now is to scale what we’ve proven — to show that sustainability can drive both performance and profitability, and that American innovation can once again lead the world in textile and materials manufacturing.”

2025 Quarterly Issue IV